Few watches are as instantly recognizable—or as relentlessly coveted—as the Patek Philippe Nautilus collection.
Born in the 1970s and designed by Gérald Genta, the Nautilus fused a porthole‑inspired case with a silky integrated bracelet and elevated finishing.
Nearly five decades later, it remains the benchmark for the luxury sports watch.
A 60‑Second Origin Story
The Nautilus first hit the scene in 1976, when Patek Philippe wanted to make a statement during the quartz crisis. Instead of following the crowd, they introduced a luxury sports watch in stainless steel—something bold and totally different for the brand.
Designed by Gérald Genta, its rounded-octagon bezel, signature side “ears,” and horizontal-striped dial gave it a look no one had seen from Patek before. What started as a daring experiment soon grew into a full collection, with different sizes, metals, and complications to match every taste.
The Collection at a Glance
Here are some key references worth knowing:
Nautilus 3700/1 “Jumbo” (1976)
The watch that started it all. Nicknamed the “Jumbo,” the 3700/1 set the tone for the entire Nautilus line. It brought in the nautical-inspired design and the integrated bracelet that still define the collection today.
With its bold 1970s size and clean time-and-date display, it became the blueprint for every model that followed.
Nautilus 5711 (2006–2021)
If the 3700/1 was the original icon, the 5711 became the modern legend. For 15 years, it perfected the simple time-and-date design, running through a few different automatic movements (315 SC, 324 SC, and 26-330 SC) along the way.
It also gave us some of the most talked-about versions, like the olive-green 5711/1A-014 and the ultra-rare Tiffany-signed 5711/1A-018, with only 170 pieces made.
That variety is why you’ll see prices anywhere from the high five-figure range to seven figures for the rarest editions.
Nautilus 5811 (from 2022)
The 5811/1G-001 is the modern follow-up to the iconic 5711. It steps up in size to 41 mm, runs on the upgraded 26-330 S C caliber, and brings back the classic two-part case design—a subtle nod to the earliest Nautilus models.
The launch version comes in white gold with a striking sunburst blue dial that fades into black at the edges.
Nautilus 5712 (Complications: Moonphase + Power Reserve)
A fan favorite for its asymmetrical dial, the 5712 blends a moonphase, date subdial, and power reserve without losing the collection’s sleekness. It neatly showcases how Patek layers complications onto the Nautilus platform.
Nautilus 5726 (Annual Calendar)
A complication Patek pioneered on the wrist—here in a sporty package. The 5726 adds day, date, month, and moonphase in the familiar case and bracelet format. It’s the connoisseur’s “daily complication” Nautilus.
Nautilus 5980 (Flyback Chronograph)
The collection’s pure chronograph, celebrated for its muscular stance and single, stacked 12‑hour/60‑minute counter. If you want stopwatch utility with classic Nautilus lines, start here.
Nautilus 5990 (Travel Time Chronograph)
Dual‑time (Travel Time) plus a flyback chronograph—an ultra‑practical traveler’s tool executed the Patek way. It’s one of the collection’s most technically versatile references.
Nautilus for Women (7010, 7118, and More)
Patek broadened the Nautilus early on for women, and recent 7118 models pair the signature case with gently undulating “waves” dials and optional diamond bezels. The result is refined, wearable luxury with true Nautilus DNA.
What Makes a Nautilus a Nautilus?
Depending on the model and era, you’ll find everything from classic stainless steel or gold bracelets to occasional leather or rubber straps.
- Rounded‑octagonal bezel & “ears”: Instantly identifiable, inspired by ship portholes.
- Integrated bracelet: A seamless flow from case to bracelet—brushed, polished, and impossibly comfortable when sized correctly.
- Sport‑ready specs: Depending on reference, water‑resistance typically ranges from 60 m to 120 m; simpler, time‑and‑date models usually sit at the sportier end of that spectrum.
- Complications with restraint: From annual calendars to travel time chronographs, the best Nautilus references remain balanced and legible despite technical ambition.
How to Choose the Right Nautilus
Choosing the right Nautilus isn’t just about the reference—it’s about matching style, lifestyle, and, from daily wear to collector-grade rarity.
By Wear Style & Wrist Size
- Prefer ultra‑slim, under‑the‑cuff versatility? A 5711 (pre‑owned) or the 5811 (current) delivers the cleanest daily‑wear experience. The 5811’s 41 mm presence is just a touch bolder than the 5711’s classic 40 mm.
- Want visual dynamism and complication without bulk? The 5712 keeps the case sleek while adding moonphase and power reserve.
- Need a travel or timing tool? Pick 5990 for dual‑time + chronograph, or 5980 for a pure flyback chrono.
By Complication
- Time & date: 3700/1, 5711, 5811 (the most archetypal look)
- Moonphase / power reserve: 5712
- Annual Calendar: 5726
- Chronograph: 5980
- Travel Time Chronograph: 5990
By Metal & Dial
The Nautilus may have made its name in steel, but the gold and platinum versions take things up a notch. White, rose, and yellow gold—or even platinum on special runs—add extra weight, warmth, and often come with unique dials or gem details.
Some dial colors, like the olive-green or the Tiffany Blue 5711, have become legends in their own right—sitting at the very top of collectors’ wish lists and auction records.
Current Pricing & Availability
Nautilus watches are hard to find in stores, which pushes most buyers to the secondary market. That’s where prices really show how much demand there is. For context, entry-level Patek models like the Calatrava often start around $15,000 at major auctions.
On the other hand, the Nautilus usually starts around $30,000—and can rise fast, especially for rare or discontinued pieces.
The Nautilus 5711 is in a league of its own. Depending on the metal, dial, and history behind it, prices can start in the high five figures and climb into the six—or even seven—figures for rare editions like the Tiffany-signed models.
Pro tip: If you’re considering a modern time-and-date Nautilus, the 5811/1G is worth a close look. It carries forward the essence of the 5711, now with an updated movement and refined case design. Crafted in white gold instead of steel, it naturally shifts the price landscape—both at retail and on the secondary market.
Spotlight: 5711 vs. 5811 (What Actually Changed?)
The Nautilus has gone through some subtle but important changes over the years.
- Size: The classic 5711 measured 40 mm, while the newer 5811 has a slightly larger 41 mm case—just enough to feel a bit more modern on the wrist.
- Movement: Inside, the 5711 moved through several calibers—starting with the 315 SC, then the 324 SC, and finally the 26-330 S C. The 5811 launched already equipped with the updated 26-330 S C, giving it the latest movement right from the start.
- Case design: The 5711 was built with a three-part case. With the 5811, Patek brought back a two-part construction that nods to the early days of the Nautilus.
- Material at launch: The 5711 in stainless steel became the icon of its generation. The 5811, however, made its debut in white gold—setting a different tone from the beginning.
6 Buying Checklist (To Avoid Expensive Mistakes)
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Source Matters
Buying from an authorized retailer or a brand’s own boutique is still the safest route—it’s the gold standard. The only catch? You might need a little patience, especially for popular models. If you’re searching for something rare or no longer in production, auctions and trusted secondary dealers can be a great option. Just make sure to double-check authenticity and carefully review the condition reports before bidding or buying. -
Paper Trail & Provenance
Always look for the full set when you can—original box, papers, and service records. Having these not only helps protect the watch’s value but also makes life easier when it comes to future servicing. -
Condition Over Hype
When it comes to value and long-term appeal, factory finishes matter most. Clean edges, even brushing, and original parts will always hold up better than flashy dials, over-polished cases, or swapped-out components. -
Size the Bracelet Properly
A good integrated bracelet should feel smooth on the wrist—it should drape nicely instead of pinching or rattling around. And here’s a simple tip: if you ever size it down, keep the extra links together with the watch so you don’t lose them. -
Understand Water Resistance
The Nautilus can handle water, but the exact depth depends on the model—most are rated between 60 and 120 meters. If you plan to swim with it, make sure it’s been pressure-tested after servicing to be safe. -
Service With Specialists
The Patek Philippe Nautilus is built with incredible precision, which means servicing should only be trusted to Patek’s own centers or independent watchmakers who know the Nautilus inside and out. Proper care ensures your watch keeps its value and performance for years to come. For collectors, Timepiece Trading is your go-to source. We specialize in authentic, pre-owned Nautilus models and bring the expertise needed whether you’re buying, selling, or maintaining your timepiece.
Final Word
The Patek Philippe Nautilus has stayed iconic because it manages to do two things at once—it’s easy to wear every day, yet it also rewards you when you take a closer look. Some collectors love the simplicity of the time-and-date models like the 3700/1, 5711, or 5811.
Others are drawn to the elegance of the 5712 with its moonphase, or the practical edge of the 5726, 5980, and 5990. No matter your taste, there’s a Nautilus that feels right for your wrist and your lifestyle.
When choosing, start with the design you’ll enjoy wearing most. Find the best example your budget allows, and think long-term—this is a watch you’ll treasure for decades, not just a season. That’s the beauty of the Nautilus.
Explore our full Patek Philippe Nautilus collection at Timepiece Trading.
